OCVC TECH NOTES: Pointless Ignition System

OCVC TECH NOTES

"Pointless" Ignition System - 1967 1800S

By Ted Brough

After successfully rebuilding and converting my B18 engine to a B20, I decided to try one of the “pointless” ignition systems. I purchased the Pertronics Ignitor unit from IPD part number CQ3E0299. Because I still wanted to use the original coil with the shielded primary hot wire, I also purchased the IPD wiring kit part number CQE106. Essentially, the kit is two wires tied together at one end with a diode attached to each wire.

The ignition unit consists of a module with a special mounting plate for the Bosch distributor and a magnetic ring that fits over the distributor shaft. The mechanical installation was simplicity itself. It’s easier if you remove the distributor from the car—make sure you mark the distributor’s position before removal. Next, remove the points, condenser, all the mounting hardware, insulating washers, and spacers. Keep all this stuff and carry it in the car “just in case.” Slip the wires through the terminal hole until the grommet snaps in, and then install the plate to the distributor frame with the original point mounting screw. Slip the ring over the distributor shaft making sure that it is fully seated—it will only go on one way. Re-install the rotor, and then re-install the distributor on the engine. Note that there is no mechanical contact between the module and the ring; this is the real beauty of this unit. No more replacing, adjusting, or cussing at the points! No more adjusting the timing! Re-install the distributor cap and plug wires.

Making the electrical connections in the car with the shielded coil is a little tricky. Follow the included instructions to the letter. There is a special instruction sheet for cars with shielded ignition and/or stock tachometer. I won’t repeat them here but will give some helpful hints. Remember, the stock 1800S tach has two white wires—really the same wire electrically. One of these wires—the one that originally went to the points—will connect to the black wire of the new ignition module. I suggest leaving the factory lug on that white wire and crimp a matching lug on the module black wire. Connect the two together with a short screw and nut then put shrink tubing over the connection. This will allow you to easily convert back to points if required. You don’t have to get under the dash to do this job if your car has stock wiring. You will have to connect a wire to the starter activation wire—the small wire going to the starter solenoid with a spade terminal. I did this by using a single female-to-double male terminal on the starter solenoid. You will also need to connect to the unfused side of the 12V circuit that is activated by the ignition switch. This should be the green wire connected to the top fuse of the two-fuse fuse box. Connect to the end of the fuse towards the front of the car. The purpose of the wire kit with the two diodes is to allow the ignition module to get 12V from the starter circuit during starting. When the engine is running, power is derived from the normal 12V switch source—this way you get around the shielded coil problem. Make sure all electrical connections are tight. Solder or crimp all connections. A loose connection in the coil primary circuit will cause much grief later on.

I found the Pertronics Ignitor System to be one of the best bargains around. The hassle and expense of replacing points and condenser is eliminated. I have put almost 4,000 miles on my ’67 1800S since installing the system with no problems. This pointless ignition system really does have a point!